Mount Everest is the most popular of world eight-thousanders: since 1953, to this day, there was some insane number of people — about 4000.
Regarding every serious vertex, there is such a concept as a «mortality rate» (Fatality-to-Summit Ratio) — the number of dead on the mountain, divided into the total number of conquest attempts (including unsuccessful). He is the largest Annapurna (32%) and Choiri (about 30%), in Everest he is less than 10%. For example, Annapurna was trying to conquer only 191 times, and Burning Mount 61 Life (by the way, five years ago, the ratio was 60 to 157, that is, it was much higher).
The achievement of Didier Delsal is officially considered «conquest», albeit rather strange. But in principle, he, like climbers, showed superhuman skills, managed twice in a row to climb to the top of Everest on a helicopter, touch the snow by the snow, fixing the landing, and return alive.
Didier, it was difficult to control the helicopter in the rarefied air during the wind 33.6 m / s?
Highly. But the most complex part was the landing itself. I did not know, I concern the snow lying on the rock, or snow under which — emptiness. If nothing had happened under the snow, it would be very difficult to instantly increase turns and raise the helicopter.
When I was preparing for the flight, I had several sleepless nights. But during the flight itself, I was extremely concentrated. I asked the mountain to accept me. It was like getting a new friend.
In fact, it was a brilliant advertising. The best Eurocopter company for its serial model AS350 Ecureuil could not even come up with. The helicopter itself (in the sense of this model, and not the same) was developed in the early 70s and made the first flight on June 27, 1974, subsequently survived a number of modernization and improvements.
Delsal used the AS350 B3 modification is a high-performance, equipped with an ARRIEL 2B engine and an electronic control system. It was this modification that Eurocopter advertised. Passenger chairs were removed from the helicopter — this made it possible to ease the car at 120 kilograms and due to this add extra fuel.
Didier, will your flight be a good undertaking in rescue operations from such heights?
The idea of salvation of climbers was one of my main motivations with participation in the project. But, honestly, the forces of nature were so powerful that it is simply impossible to guarantee a safe flight at such heights. For salvation, more serious helicopters will have to build.
Nevertheless, you took part in the rescue operation in Nepal.
Yes, I saved two Japanese climbers from a height of 4877 meters. It would be impossible for small Nepalese helicopters, for me — without problems.
From 8000 meters, the «death zone» begins. From there they do not save anyone and never. Because an attempt to save in a 100% case means the death of both — and saved, and saving.
Recall that today
The history of the mountaineering knew only two successful attempts to save from such heights. The first successful attempt was in 2006, when a group of climbers managed to endure from a height of 8,600 meters dying from the Hypothermia Lincoln Hall. Found his fourthkeeper reaching up climbers.
They could not save him (in four of us at such a height, it is impossible to even raise the human body, because the muscles work about 15% of their capabilities), but they went down to the camp, rose back in full team — 13 people! — And nevertheless, Hall was taken out.
The second case is even more unique. The Israeli climber Nadav Ben-Yehuda alone (!) Was able to pull out the «zone of death» the Turka Idida Ermak (from the height of 8600 to the nearest camp at 7900), refusing his own climb. The descent took 9 hours, and the doctors still do not understand how the nadavi succeeded. It was an amazing and unique set of circumstances.
That is why you can never scold climbers for the fact that there are corpses on Evereste, and sometimes alive — looking like those die. To make the body with a similar height is impossible simply technically, as, for example, it is impossible to travel in time.
Alt = »Green boots
The famous Dead Everest, Tsevang Pagger on the nickname «Green shoes», one of the victims of the famous tragedy of 1996, served as a reliable reference to the northeastern slope, while he was not buried, laying stones ..jpg «>
The famous Dead Everest, Tsevang Pulgarian on the nickname «Green boots», one of the victims of the famous 1996 tragedy, served as a reliable reference to the northeastern slope, while he was not buried, laying stones.
Extremely rare the dead after all, they find the strength to bury the same. Below, in the picture of the grave of David Sharpe, who died in front of his stammerous group of Inglis’s brand. Sharpe’s death became a sensation, because Inglis headed the delegation of the Discovery channel. They filmed all the climb, and when they shot the sitting Sharpe with a blue face, thought he was dead. And then he opened his eyes. You can see in Dying for Everest or Everest: Beyond The Limit.
But we are not about it. We are that Delsal’s helicopter became a ray of hope.
On April 29, 2010, the flight of Delsal gave his fruits. A similar AS350 B3 Ecureuil saved three no longer able to descend from the mountainous disease of Spanish climbers from a height of 6900 meters on annapurna I (8091 meters) — three flights, one at a time. Captain Daniel AufdenBlatten, tourists clinging to the helicopter Richard Lenner clinging to the helicopter. The Spaniards descended to the base camp at an altitude of 4000 meters. Here is a frame from this salvation:
Before this case, the record of Nepalese Lieutenant Colonel Madana Hutri was considered the highest salvation, which in 1996 saved the climbers of Beck Weisters and Makul Gau from the height of 6096 meters (Camp I).
Didier, can ever appear on top, for example, an Everest cafe?
No, there can be no speech on the vertex to the top. For tourism, safety standards are needed comparable to passenger flights on the airliner. Personally, I really hope that the authorities of Tibet and Nepal will introduce any special law that categorically prohibiting tourist flights to Everest — just in case.
Delsal took off from Lukla’s base camp (2866 meters) on May 14, 2005 and at 7:8 am 8 minutes in the morning at an altitude of 8848 meters. Interestingly, if Delsal did not protect the hermetic helicopter cabin, he would most likely lost consciousness from the insane pressure drop and in general the aggravation of mountainous disease. Mountaineers professionals rise on no more than 600 meters per day, because the more high-speed lifting for a person can become fatal.
The official record of the high-speed lift belongs to Sherbo Pembeta Dordji, which on May 21, 2004 rose to Everest for 8 hours and 10 minutes. But we must not forget that Dordi raised not from the bottom, but from the base camp, located at an altitude of 5300 meters. By the way, in 2005, they and a girl on Everest got married — the first wedding at such a height.
In order for the record of the highest landing itself to be delivered, Delsal was to stay at the top of 120 seconds, touching the land of the earth. He did it. To prove that his luck is not an accident, on the next day, on May 15, 2005, Delsal flew out of Lukla again and recorded the landing on Everest for the second time in a row.
I did it twice to make sure that it is a regularity, not an accident. To get «standings», you need to touch the Earth for at least 120 seconds. On the first day I landed for 230 seconds, in the second — by 240.
Before Delsal, the most high-rise landing was the landing of the Indian helicopter Aérospatiale SA 315B Lama at an altitude of 7670 meters. True, Delsal broke this record not by this particular flight, but a little earlier, landing at an altitude of 7925 meters on the southern slope of Everest during one of the preparatory flights.
The absolute record of the high-rise flight of the helicopter Delsal, the truth did not beat. He still belongs to Jean Boule at the Aérospatiale SA 315B Lama helicopter and is 12442 meters (installed in 1972).
Interestingly, when descending, the engine has flashed at Bule, but the pilot managed to get to the Earth.:
Interestingly, at first, the Nepalese gave permission to the flight, but after establishing the record accused him of an unauthorized flight. Many (not very smart) climbers reproached Delsal in the «not too hard way» to the top, but David Khan, at that time six-time (and now 14-fold) conqueror of Everest, approved flight: «The flight of Delsal confirms the theoretical possibility of salvation At similar heights. «
Didier, why did Nepalese authorities accuse you in violating their airspace?
It was a serious misunderstanding of the parties. Nepal gave us permission to fly without any restrictions. They even wrote at the resolution: «We wish good luck!» When I returned, it seemed to me that they had changed all the leadership, feelings were completely different. And I do not know why, honestly.
However, on the official website EUROCOPTER it is written:
Dalsal first was a military helicopter, then the test helicopter (and, it seems, works in this position to this day). In the story of his name fits. Even if others land on the top of Everest, it will remain first.
And further. If helicopter stood, he would die. Or instantly, or slowly. And no one, no man, no designer, could not say: «No, Didier, your helicopter will not stall.» Rather, on the contrary.
How do philots get tolerance to flights at the height?
Let’s start with the fact that all pilots have a certain level of preparation. Finding into certain conditions by performing certain flights, they receive certain tolerances. On airplanes on which they carry passengers, they have a tolerance of a minimum of weather for landing. The helicopters also have a minimum of appliance approach, and there are tolerances by aeronautical work — to flights with a load on the outer suspension, tolerances to perform flights in the mountains to different heights, tolerances for shooting wild animals, to perform search and rescue operations …
In order to perform any work on the helicopter (it is generally an aircraft of a wide range of action and application), and in order to fly on it, you need to go through a certain preparation. For specific types of helicopters, a flight preparation program has been written, and when the pilot becomes commander, it stages passes all the required types of preparation, which are in training in a certain amount of flights. At the end of the training, the pilot passes control and check flights, and the instructor gives it a tolerance for flights.
Mountains, or rather, flights in the mountains are a rather complicated type of flight training, especially in the carriage of goods on an external suspension, and they also pass in stages. It is impossible to immediately get a tolerance of 5000 m. First, the pilot receives permission to fly to 1000, by 2000, by 3000 meters, and after 3000 — every 500 meters.
Name the highest tolerance. Is it 6 thousand meters?
Well, the helicopters do not fly so high … I have a maximum tolerance — 5800 meters, I simply did not fly … You can, of course, climb above, but this is a single case, and conduct a special training in order to fly by 7000, it makes sense. Conventional working heights — up to 4000, 5000 meters maximum, and above — only individually, small groups.
In Russia, a pilot with a tolerance of 5000 m and above only one is you?
Is it among all civil and military aviation?
Military — they are mainly engaged in military affairs, but at large altitudes are not fighting: in Afghanistan, the war went to 3000 meters, above there is nothing to do there. If necessary, someone gets admission to large heights — let’s say, border guards, which should be delivered to something; But in the army, mostly not more than 4000 heights.
How many pilots exist with a tolerance above 4000 m?
Units or dozens?
No, Unit … Now a lot of go. Characteristically, even for «Elbrusavia» — once there were large tolerances in Sevostyanova, it was considered a grant, he flew here all my life. But now he retired. Pilots, who have high tolerances — all retired. Generational change takes place; and then training — costly procedure, fly a lot can afford not everyone. Emergency Situations Ministry, for example, can afford to burn fuel — and it is very expensive — but private companies can not, therefore, combine the training with production flight. So that we have some difficulties.
And who in general in Russia from civil aviation — for example, rescuers are interested in receiving admission to a large height?
Alpinists have the need to perform search and rescue work — avalanche covered, frozen, the cataclysm happened. The weather improved, but in order to fly there, the pilot needs tolerance. Not even the fact that the tolerance — you need to be able to fly to this height. And for this you need training. Even if you got a tolerance and do not fly, without control flights, the skill is lost, you do not have the right to fly …
Immediately minus 500 meters, right?
No, at all this height. All heights without control flights will not allow you.
To get tolerance, you need an instructor and clock of the plaque, right?
The first tolerance is given by 1000 meters, then, after a raid at 100 hours, the next tolerance is given, and so every 100 hours. And above, above … All this is done in stages, without forcing.
In our country, besides you, can anyone give tolerances and train pilots?
If he knows how and prepared as an instructor — yes.
We have such?
Well, up to 4000 — there is, and above 4000 … There is a small group of people, not more than a dozen … Even less, a person is six things.
And they can raise people to their category?
How many crew members should have a tolerance?
The commander first of all. Mechanics do not need tolerance, it exploits the technique, it receives a general admission to perform work in the quality of the mechanic on the piloted helicopter. The second pilot receives tolerance for flights under the leadership of the commander.
Another question for tolerances: How wrongfully violating high-altitude tolerance than it threatens the aircraft commander and crew?
It is about the same as the departure to the oncoming lane, drunk riding … deprivation of rights, testimony of the pilot. Can generally deprive — depending on the severity of the offense.
Hears the commander, he decides, so he answers. We are cruelly punished for these things, life shows that violations of flights are higher than admission.
What models of helicopters can be used in the mountains? Mi-8, Ka-32 — and all?
Mi-26 is a big car, it makes no sense to carry it into the mountains, it takes big loads. The most common helicopter from us — Mi-8, a very good model, and all its latest modifications have good flight characteristics. You probably have heard that AS-350 flew somehow on Everest? It was not a serial helicopter, but lightweight, specially prepared, with a supervision — oxygen was filed. And we fly on mass machines. For the Mi-8 serial machine, these heights (5600 meters) are a good result. The serial car, it is universal: you can take people and loads. We simply do not have other light helicopters. Foreigns have worse characteristics. Mountains are mostly flying the helicopters of light class, weighing somewhere up to five tons.
Mi-8 and ka-32 Similar features relative to the height, however, how do they differ in behavior?
Behavior maybe they have the same — air and there and there is resolved, the engines are the same, but they differ in layout. Mi-8 has one carrier screw and one tail, and the latter selects a portion of the main screw power to compensate for the reactive torque. KA-32 has a coaxial scheme: two screws are rotated in different directions, the jet is compensated, and all the power goes to the creation of lifting force. This is the winning «Kasya».
But the «ka» have and features … I do not know the case so that it takes the height of more than 5000 m — although the testes probably sat down. It has certain conditions for strengthening the screw: the lower screw operates in the air, which is discarded by the upper screw, so there are certain losses in «hanging».
Mi-8, in turn, has a more spacious cabin, it is more versatile. What we ship in the Mi-8 are hardly downloading to «ka». No one makes special helicopters to just fly in the mountains, the helicopter is done with some purpose.
Many of us in the country of «Bears»? In the Ministry of Emergency Situations, for example?
How much exactly — I can not say. Probably several dozen, they are scattered throughout the country. I do not own information by quantity, but the park is good.
Are they produced with some regularity?
Yes, by request, of course, the plant in Kazan or in Ulan-Ude will make you «eight» of any modification for every taste.
The commodities of the Ministry of Emergency Situations come to the Caucasus are located in Rostov, Sochi, Stavropol — in general, in two hours of summer …
Select the best option where to keep the helicopter. He «sits» not only to work in the mountains, maybe somewhere something happens — channels, power plants, fires … if you need to «cover up» some kind of area, the optimal place of basing is selected so that the conditions for the overall reach were the best.
The price constantly floats, as is the price of oil. The main is the price of fuel. It fluctuates on different types of Mi-8 helicopters (depending on the modification) somewhere from a thousand to two and a half thousand dollars per hour.
«There are still places where $ 1,000 per hour can buy an hour of flight Mi-8?»
Yes, there are such places. There are cheaper, it is the market, in different regions in different ways. The price is as follows: for example, a helicopter costs 10 million and he, for example, 10,000 hours before repair. We divide the price of the number of hours, and you get the component of the price that goes to renovation. Then there is the price of maintenance, salary of pilots, the price of fuel (in different regions it is different), air navigation service, airfield service.
How many kerosene in an hour consumes Mi-8?
In the mountains, by the way, at the height, the car works quite economically. On average, it consumes in a plain area somewhere 650 — 800 liters, depending on the flight speed and loading, and in the mountains — less, somewhere within 600 — 650 liters per hour.
In which case the helicopter will fly someone to save? What should this have to happen from whom should the signal come from?
From the service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and only in extreme cases — if the question arises of someone to remove, if it threatens health … And not only the Ministry of Emergency Situations flies on the sanzation, but the helicopters are simply airlines, some specially duty on emergency.
Do they somehow agree with the Ministry of Emergency Situations?
No. The local hospital concludes an agreement with the airline — for example, when you need to carry the patient, at any time of the day and the night hire it, it will fly to pick up the patient. And the Ministry of Emergency Situations now makes specialized units to provide urgent medical care on roads — where the car will not be able to quickly deliver. In Moscow, by the way, the light helicopters ka-105 also fly, ka-117 equipped with resuscitation devices to the latest word.
For example, the Ministry of Emergency Situations decided to save man. How much time passes from the distress signal to take off the car?
All this is very fast. There are devoid of duty — the first, second, third. The third is when the pilot is at home: it will come run, if there is a need, in the area of an hour-one and a half … there is duty on the second degree of readiness — the duty house, the pilots are sitting there, there is a helicopter next to the airfield, they are resting, watching TV … The whistle sounds, they jump into the car — and flew. It usually takes twenty minutes away, ten — run to the helicopter and ten minutes — to launch. There is a first degree readiness duty — the pilot sits in a helicopter and waits for the team. There are no unnecessary wires. Basically duty on the «second» readiness.
Who is the possibility of take-off under specified weather conditions?
Generally decides the commander. He requests permission to depart in the service, which receives information from weather stations on weather. There are conditions under which you can not fly, pilots know it. If the weather does not match these conditions, and you request, you will simply be allowed to take off. For example cloudy. Here you sit, and the clouds at the bottom almost do not observe — why not take off? By the gorge, you can fly, please, no one will express you, but walk, for example, to Elbrus, break through the cloudy …
In the mountains, the flights in the clouds below safe height are prohibited. There were already many cases when they came across the mountains. Therefore, a safe height is calculated for this area, and if you fall into the clouds, you must score a safe height, stop the task, report and follow the spare airfield.
What time of day can fly in the mountains?
Only in a bright time. In the mountains at night, the flights are prohibited. Thirty minutes before sunset, you should sit. But the plain fly …
There are ideal saving: a person gets injury, it almost immediately flies a small helicopter with a lifeguard on a cable, takes. And the client in half an hour turns out to be in the capital of the district. Are we possible a similar scheme?
We, firstly, there are no such domestic «little helicopters». Secondly, these small helicopters do not fly at large altitudes — about 2000 m maximum. I worked on the spurs of the Alps in the north — there are «Koala» firms of the company «Agusta» fly there, but only where mountain tourism is powerfully developed. Heights there are small.
What helicopters are used at altitudes of more than 4000 meters?
Mostly Agusta-109 and Koala, Eurocopters 350th and 355th. They are cheaper than Mi-8, because small.
And if you imagine that there will be such a small helicophetic in the Caucasus to save people?
Well, for the sake of God, you need to make such a helicopter … put high-altitude engines, trained the pilots — and will save. It all requires certain costs, it is clear. But in principle, everything is possible. Everything rests on money. There are developments, do you know on paper how much is done?
Russian rescuers have experience in the cable, on the suspension?
But what about. We have such an exercise — performing search and rescue operations using suspension and lifting devices. We take people with a whistle mode over land, above the water … Exercises are held, we all have it. By the way, the Mi-34 is preparing — a small helicopter, the maximum take-off weight — 1800. Three years will make it, you will adapt.
Based on materials Risk.ru.
The full version of the text and the photo can be viewed.
You probably drew attention to such information that Everest is, in the full sense of the word, the mountain of death. Storming this height, the climber knows that he has a chance not to return. Death can cause a lack of oxygen, heart failure, frostbite or injury. The fatal random caused to death, such as a frozen oxygen cylinder valve. Moreover, the path to the top is so complicated that, as Alexander Abramov said, Alexander Abramov said, «at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters it is impossible to afford the luxury of morality. Above 8000 meters, you are completely busy, and in such extreme conditions you have no extra strength to help a comrade. » At the end of the post will be a video on this topic.
The tragedy, which happened on Everest in May 2006, shook the whole world: 42 climbers were indifferent by a slowly frozen Englishman David Sharpe, but no one helped him. Some of them were the TV channel «Discovery», which tried to interview the dying and, photographed it, left one …
On Everest, the groups of climbers pass past the unwrapped corpses, scattered here, then, these are the same climbers, only they are not lucky. Some of them broke up and broke the bones, someone froze or simply weakened and still frozen.
What morality can at an altitude of 8000 meters above the sea level? Here every one for yourself, just to survive.
If so want to prove to myself that you are mortal, then you should try to visit Everest.
Most likely, all these people who stayed there, thought it was not about them. And now they are like a reminder that not all in the hands of a person.
No one leads statistics there, because they climb in the main savages and small groups from three to five people. And the price of such an ascent costs from 25t $ to 60t $. Sometimes paying opening with life if they saved on trifles. So, on the eternal guard there are about 150 people, and maybe 200. And many who visited there, they say that they feel the look of a black climber who rests in the back, because right on the northern route is eight openly lying tel. Among them are two Russians. From the south there is about ten. But the climbers are already afraid to deviate from the laid trail, they can not get out of there, and no one will save them.
Creepy bikes go among climbers who visited that top, because it does not forgive mistakes and human indifference. In 1996, a group of climbers from the Japanese University of Fukuoka rose to Everest. Along with their route, three felling disaster of climbers from India were depleted — exhausted, the early people asked for help, they survived the height storm. The Japanese went past. When the Japanese group came down, then it was already frozen to save already to save.
It is believed that Mellory was the first to conquer the top and killed already on the descent. In 1924, Mallory with a partner of Irving began climbing. The last time they were seen in the binoculars in the cloud break only 150 meters from the vertex. Then the clouds agreed and climbers disappeared.
They did not return back, only in 1999, at an altitude of 8290 m, the next conquers of the vertices came across a lot of bodies who died in the last 5-10 years. Among them found Mallory. He lay on his stomach, as if trying to hug the mountain, head and hands were enforced into the slope.
The partner of Irving did not find it, although the binding on the body Mallory says that the couple was with each other until the very end. The rope was cut with a knife and, perhaps, Irving could move and leaving the comrade, died somewhere below the slope.
The wind and the snow make their work, those places on the body that are not covered with clothing, dominated by the snow wind to the bones and, the older the corpse, the smaller the flesh remains on it. No one is going to evacuate dead climbers, the helicopter can not rise to such a height, and to drag on himself a carcass from 50 to 100 kilograms of altruists is not located. So lies with uncompaired climbers on the slopes.
Well, not quite all the climbers such egoists, they still save and do not throw their own. Only many who died — to blame themselves.
For the sake of the installed personal record of oxygenous climb, American Francis Arsenteva has already lacquered on the descent on the southern slope of Everest. Merchant, but still a living woman passed climbers from different countries. Some offered her oxygen (from which she first refused, not wanting to spoil his record), others poured a few sips of hot tea, there was even a married couple who tried to collect people to pull her into the camp, but they soon went away, because At risk their own lives.
American men, Russian climber Sergei Arsentiev, with whom they were lost on the descent, did not wait for her in the camp, and went to her search, at which he also died.
In the spring of 2006, eleven people died on Everest — no news, it would seem if one of them, Briton David Sharp, was not left in a state of agony passing by a group of about 40 climbers. Sharpe was not rich and climbed without guides and sherbo. Dramatic is that he has enough money, his salvation would be possible. He would have been alive today.
Each in the spring on the slopes of Everest, both with Nepalese and the Tibetan side, grown countless tents, in which one and the same dream goes to the roof of the world. Perhaps because of the motley diversity of tents resembling giant tents, or due to the fact that an abnormal phenomenon occurs on this mountain from some time, the place of action was painted «Circus on Everest».
Society with wise calm looked at this house clowns, as in the place of entertainment, a little magical, almost absurd, but innocuous. Everest became the arena for circus ideas, there are ridiculous and funny things: children come to hunt behind the early records, old people make climbing without help, eccentric millionaires appear, who did not see the cats even in the photograph, the helicopters landed at the top and not It has nothing to do with mountaineering, but much in common with money, which if not moving the mountains, then make them below. However, in the spring of 2006, the «Circus» turned into a horror theater, erasing forever the image of innocence, which was usually associated with the pilgrimage on the roof of the world.
In the spring of 2006, on Everest, about forty mountaineers left the Englishman David Sharpe one dying in the midst of the northern slope; Standing before choosing, to assist or continue ascent to the top, they chose the second, as to achieve the highest peak of the world for them meant to make a feat.
On the very day, when David Sharpe died surrounded by this pretty company and in complete contempt, the media of the whole world sang diffilams to the brand inglis, the New Zealand Guide, who for lack of legs amputized after professional injury, climbed to the top of Everest on hydrocarbon prostheses Artificial fiber with cats attached to them.
The news provided by the media as a supernavitory, as evidence that dreams can change reality, hid in themselves tons of garbage and mud, so that Inglis himself began to say: no one helped British David Sharpe in his suffering. The American Mounteverest.net web page picked up the news and began to pull the string. At the end of it — the history of human degradation, which is difficult to understand, the horror, which would be trapped, if there were no means of information that the incident to investigate the incident.
David Sharp, rising on the mountain alone, participating in the climbing organized by Asia Trekking, died when his oxygen cylinder refused an altitude of 8500 meters. It happened on May 16th. Sharpe was not newcomer in the mountains. In his 34 years, he was already applied to the eight-year-old, passing the most complex areas without using the railing, which may not be a heroic act, but at least shows his character. Suddenly remaining without oxygen, Sharpe now felt bad and immediately collapsed on the rocks at an altitude of 8,500 meters in the middle of the northern ridge. Some of those who beat him assure that he thought he was resting. Several Sherpov asked his condition, asked who he was traveling with whom. He replied: «My name is David Sharp, I’m here with» Asia Trekking «and just want to sleep.»
Northern Comb Everest.
New Zelandes Mark Inglin, with two amputated legs, crossed with its hydrocarbon prostheses through the body of David Sharpe to reach the vertices; He was one of the few who admitted that Sharpe was really left to die. «At least our expedition was the only one that did something for him: our Sherpi gave him oxygen. On that day, about 40 waters passed by him, and no one did anything, «he said.
The first one who alated the death of Sharpe was the Brazilian Vytor Non-Neuthet, who also stated that he was robbed in the alpine camp. I could not tell any more details, since he died in two days. Non-neat stepped to the top from the northern ridge without the help of artificial oxygen, but during the descent began to feel bad and requested the help of the radio with his sherpa, who helped him get to the camp number 3. He died in his tent, perhaps due to The edema caused by stay at the height.
In contrast to generally accepted opinion, most people die on Everest during good weather, and not when the mountain is covered with clouds. The cloudless sky inspires any, regardless of its technical equipment and physical opportunities, here it is, the eath and typical collaps caused by a height. This spring roof of the world knew a period of good weather, which lasted over two weeks without wind and clouds, sufficient, to beat the recovery record at that time of the year: 500.
Camp after storm.
Under the worst conditions, many would not rise and not died …
David Sharpe still stayed alive by spending a terrible night at an altitude of 8500 meters. Throughout this time, he had a fiction magic company Mister Yellow boots, the corpse of the Indian climber, dressed in the old yellow plastic «Koflach» shoes, located there for years, lying on the crest in the middle of the road and still in the embryo position.
Grotto, where David Sharp died. From ethical considerations the body is painted white.
David Sharpe should not die. It would be rather that commercial and non-commercial expeditions that went to the top agreed to save the Englishman. If this did not happen, then only because there was no money, nor equipment, there was no one in the base camp, who could offer Sherpam engaged in such work, a good amount of dollars in exchange for life. And, since there was no economic incentive, resorted to a false asbetal expression: «At the height you need to be independent.» If this principle was faithful, the elders, blind, people with various amputated limbs would have come to the top of Everest, and other representatives of the fauna, which are found at the foot of the «Icons» of Himalayas, knowing that what he could not Make their competence and experience, allow their fat checkbook.
Three days after the death of David Sharpe, the head of «Peace Project» Jamie Mak Guinness and ten of his Sherpov saved one of his customers who entered the corkscrew, a little time after climbing the top. It was spent on this 36 hours, but on the improvised stretchers they were evacuated from the top, 11d to the base camp. Can I be able to save the dying? He, of course, paid a lot, and it saved his life. David Sharp paid only to have a cook and a tent in the base camp.
Safety on Everest.
A few days later, two members of one expedition from Castile La Manci had enough to evacuate one semi-winning Canadian by the name of Vince from the northern saddle (at an altitude of 7000 meters) under the indifferent glances of many of those who were going there.
A little later was one episode, which will finally resolve disputes about whether it is possible or not to assist the dying on Everest. Harry Kickstra Guide received a task to lead one group in which Thomas Weber appeared among his clients, which had problems with the vision due to the removal of the brain tumor in the past. On the day of the lift to the top of Kickstay, Weber, five Sherpov and the second client, Lincoln Hall, came out with the third camp at night with good climatic conditions.
Abundant swallow oxygen, a little more than two hours later, they stumbled upon David Sharpe’s corpse, with squeamishness bypassed him and continued the path to the top. Contrary to the problems with the vision, which the height would have to sharpen, Weber climbed independently, using the railing. Everything happened, as provided for. Lincoln Hall with his two sherpas came forward, but at this time the Weber had serious impaired vision. 50 meters from the top of Kickstay decided to finish climbing and headed with his Sherpu and Weber back. Little — Ironome Group began to descend from the third stage, then with the second … While Suddenly Weber, seemed exhausted and lost coordination, did not throw a panic look at Kick Strong and did not sorrify him: «I’m dying.» And died, falling into his hands in the middle of the ridge. Nobody could revive him.
Moreover, Lincoln Hall, returning from the top, began to feel bad. Warned on Radio Kikstra, still being in a state of shock from the death of Weber, sent one of his Sherpov to meet the hall, but the latter collapsed 8700 meters and, despite the help of Sherpov, for nine hours trying to revive him, could not climb him. At seven o’clock they reported that he was dead. The executives of the expedition advised Sherpam’s concerned about the starting darkness, leave Lincoln Hall and save their lives that they did.
In the same morning, seven hours later, the Guide was given Mazur, who followed the clients on the road to the top, came across the hall, who, to surprise, was alive. After he was given tea, oxygen and medicine, Hall was able to talk on the radio with his group on the base. Immediately all the expeditions that were on the north side agreed together and sent a detachment out of ten Sherpov to help him. They took it together with the crest and returned to life.
He frosting his hands is the minimum loss in this situation. We would also have to do with David Sharp, but unlike the Hall (one of the most famous Himalians from Australia, a member of the expedition, who opened one of the ways on the northern side of Everest in 1984), the Englishman had a famous name and support group .
The case with Sharpe is not news, no matter how scandalous it seems. The Dutch expedition left to die on the southern saddle of one Indian climber, leaving him just five meters from his tent, leaving when he whispered something else and waved his hand.
The famous tragedy, shocking many, occurred in May 1998. Then a married couple died — Sergey Arsenty and Francis Di-Hell.
Sergey Arsentev and Francis DiTefano Arsentev, spending 8,200 m three nights (!), They went to climb and climbed to the top 22/05/1998 at 18: 15. The search was made without the use of oxygen. Thus, Francis became the first American woman and the second in the entire history of a woman who climbed without oxygen.
During the descent, the spouse lost each other. He went down to the camp. She is no.
The next day, five Uzbek climbers went to the top of Francis — she was still alive. Uzbeks could help, but for this refuse to climb. Although one comrade has already ascended, and in this case the expedition is already considered successful.
Sergey met on the descent. They said they saw Francis. He took oxygen balloons and went. But disappeared. Probably blown into a strong wind into a two-kilometer abyss.
The next day there are three other Uzbeks, three sherpa and two of South Africa — 8 people! Suitable for her — she spent the second cold night spent, but still alive! Again everyone pass by — to the top.
«My heart froze when I realized that this man in a red and black suit was alive, but absolutely one at an altitude of 8.5 km, just 350 meters from the top,» recalls the British climber. «I’m with Katie, without reflecting, turned off the route and tried to do everything possible to save the dying. So, our expedition ended, which we prepared for years, missing money from sponsors … We did not immediately manage to get to her, although she lay and close. Move at such a height is the same thing to run under water …
We found her, tried to wear a woman, but her muscles were atrophy, she looked like a rag doll and drove all the time: «I am American. Please, do not leave me»…
We dressed her two hours. My concentration of attention was lost due to the rattling sound permeating to the bones, who ruined the sinister silence, continues his story Woodhall. — I understood: Katie is about and herself will freeze to death. It was necessary to get out from there as soon as possible. I tried to raise Francis and carry it, but it was useless. My vain attempts to save her at risk of Katie. We could not do anything. «
It did not go through the day that I would have thought about Francis. A year later, in 1999, I decided to repeat the attempt to get to the top. We succeeded, but on the way back we were horrified by Francis’s body, she lay exactly as we left it, ideally preserved under the influence of low temperatures.
No one is overworthy of that end. Cathi and I promised each other to return to Everest again to bury Francis. For the preparation of a new expedition took 8 years. I wrapped Francis in the American flag and put a note from my son. We encountered her body into a break, away from the eye of other climbers. Now she rests with the world. Finally, I was able to do something for her. » Ian Woodhall.
A year later, Sergei Arsenyev’s body was found: «I apologize for the delay in the photos of Sergey. We have seen him definitely — I remember the purple fluffy costume. He was in a position as if bows, lying immediately for Johanovsky (Jochen Hemmleb — the historian of the expedition — S.K.) «implicitly expressed edge» in the area of the Mallory of approximately 27150 feet (8254 m). I think it is — he. » Jake Norton, participant in the 1999 expedition.
But in the same year there was a case when people remained humans. In the Ukrainian expedition, the guy spent almost there, where the American, a cold night. Its lowered it to the base camp, and then more than 40 people from other expeditions helped. Easy to get rid — four fingers deleted.
«In such extreme situations, everyone has the right to decide: to save or not save the partner … Above 8000 meters you are fully engaged in yourself and it is quite natural that you do not help the other, since you do not have extra strength.» Miko Imai.
On Everest, Sherpi acts as excellent actors of the second plan in the film, removed to glorify actors without a fee, silently fulfilling their role.
Sherpi at work.
But Sherpi, providing their services for money, are in this matter the main. Without them there are neither periodile ropes, nor many aspirations, nor, of course, salvation. And in order for them to help, you need to pay money: Sherpov taught to be sold for money, and they use tariff for any occurring circumstances. Just as a poor climber who is not able to pay, Sherp himself may be in a difficult position, so for the same reason it is cannonous meat.
The position of Sherpov is very difficult, since they take on themselves first of all the risk to organize the «performance» so that even the least qualified can surround themselves a piece of what is paid for.
«The corpses on the route is a good example and a reminder that you need to be more careful on the mountain. But every year the waters are more and more, and according to the statistics of the corpses, it will be added every year. The fact that in normal life is unacceptable, at large altitudes is considered as the norm. » Alexander Abramov, Master of Sports of the USSR on the mountaineering.
«It is impossible to continue to make ascent, making it towards the corpses, and pretend that it is in the order of things.» Alexander Abramov.
«Why do you go to Everest?» asked George Mallory.
«Because he is!»
Mellories first conquered the top and died already on the descent. In 1924, the bunch of Mallory-Irving began the assault. The last time they were seen in the binoculars in the cloud break only 150 meters from the vertex. Then the clouds agreed and climbers disappeared.
The riddle of their disappearance, the first Europeans remaining in Sagarmatha, worried many. But to find out what happened to the climber, they took many years.
In 1975, one of the conquerors assured that he saw some body aside from the main path, but did not approach not to lose his strength. It took another twenty years so that in 1999, in the end of the slope from 6 high-rise camp (8290 m) to the West, the expedition came across many bodies who died in the last 5-10 years. Among them found Mallory. He lay on his stomach, prostrate, as if hugging the mountain, head and hands were enforced into the slope.
«Turned over — the eyes are closed. So, he died not suddenly: when they are broken, many of them remain open. I did not let down — they burned there. «
Irving did not find it, although the binding on the body Mallory suggests that the couple was with each other until the end. The rope was cut with a knife and, perhaps, Irving could move and leaving the comrade, died somewhere below the slope.
Scary frames of the Discovery Channel in the TV series «Everest — for the Break of Possible». When the group finds a freezing person, removes it to the camera, but only interested in the name, leaving die alone in an ice cave:
Immediately the question arises, but what is it:
Francis Arsentiev (Francys Astaniev).
The cause of death: supercooling and / or brain edema.
The evacuation of the bodies of dead climbers is greater difficulty, and it is often impossible at all, therefore, in most cases, their body remains forever on Everest. The climbers passing by the memory of Francis commemorated, covering her body by the American flag.
Francis Arsentevas climbed Everest along with her husband Sergei in 1998. At some point they lost sight of each other, and never could be reunited, perishing in different parts of the mountain. Francis died of supercooling and a possible enemy of the brain, and Sergey, most likely, crashed during a fall.
Cause of death: Head injury as a result of fall.
The British climber George Mallory may have been the first person who managed to visit the top of Everest, but for sure we will never know. The last time Mallory and his partner on a conjunction Andrew Irvina saw during the climb on Everest in 1924. In 1999, the legendary climber Konrad Anchor discovered the remains of Mallory, however, they do not answer the question of whether he managed to reach the vertices.
In 1979, the first woman died on Everest — the German mountaineer of Hannelor Shmats. Her body froze in the half-sidewal position, since he originally had a backpack under her back. Once by the body of Shmats, which could be seen a little higher than the camp IV, passed all the climbers who climbed the southern slope, but once strong winds dispel her remains over the wall Kangshung.
One of the few bodies found at large altitudes, and the remaining unidentified.
Tsevang Paljor (Tsewang Paljor).
Cause of death: supercooling.
Corpse Mountainist Tzvanga Paljor, one of the members of the First Indian Group, who has tried to climb Everest on the northeast route. Paljor died during the descent when Buran began.
The corpse of Tsevga Paljor on Slane Mountaineers is called «Green Boots». It serves as a landmark for climbing climbing Everest.
David Sharp (David Sharp).
The cause of death: supercooling and oxygen starvation.
British climber David Sharp stopped to stay not far from green shoes, and could not continue the path. Other climbers passed by a slowly freezing disassembled Sharpe, but did not have the opportunity to help him, without creating threats to his own life.
Marco Liethtener (Marko Lihteneker).
The cause of death: supercooling and oxygen starvation due to problems with oxygen equipment.
Slovenian climber died during a descent from Everest in 2005. His body was found only 48 meters from the top.
The cause of death is not installed.
The body of another climber, which was found on the slope and was not identified.
Shriya Shah-Klorfine (SHRIYA SHAH-KLORFINE).
Canadian Mountaineer Srony Shah-Klorfain conquered Everest in 2012, but died during the descent. Her body lies 300 meters from the top wrapped by the Canadian flag.
The cause of death is not installed.
The original article is on the site
If fate brought you to Nepal and presented a few free hours, we offer to get a unique experience — fly on a helicopter to the foot of Everest, aligning the flight with sightseeing aeroexcursion on Himalayas and breakfast on the background of the highest top of the planet! It is not a cheap, about four times more expensive than regular circular flights in the Himalayas on the aircraft, but the impressions will remain many, many times more. There is a huge difference between the view through a small aircraft porthole and a wide panorama of the windows of a helicopter, from the floor to the ceiling, forward, on the sides back with the exception of the tail. In addition, they are not released from the aircraft, and the helicopter will land at the foot of Everest.
Google Map flight to Everest by helicopter.
Our helicopter will rise to the air at the airport of Kathmandu named after the King Tybghuvan, in 50 minutes we are cut to Numbura, we will overtake the mountain from the east and sit in Lucla to refueling. Fuel will take place for weight saving. Then the short, only 8 minutes, the flight to the Dudh Kosi gorge between the arrays of Congre and Kyashhar — Kusum Kang — Shearca to Xyangboche and landing at the helicopter near the hotel Everest View. On foot from the helicopter to the hotel restaurant no more than five minutes, then breakfast overlooking Everest. The terrace offers a stunning panorama of the Himalayas, to the main vertex of the planet only 28 kilometers. Given the giant sizes of Everest, it is quite a bit.
Another remarkable species platform, where the helicopter will easily sit down, — Kong. Before Everest, a little further — 32 kilometers, but the spectacle from there is even more grandiose — Congre just above the hotel Everest looks and there is a wider review.
The next stop is a helicopter area on the slope of Kalapattar Mountain only 10 kilometers from Everest and 2.5 from his base camp (it is possible to stop in the basic camp itself, but there is no such review). At a height of 5290, a helicopter can take no more than 3 people, so if the passengers are more, four or five, then we will fly to the foot of Everest twice. At such an altitude, without preliminary acclimatization, we can spend no more than 6-7 minutes, so that time we only have to stretch your legs, make some photos and stand up a little alone to sense the greatness of the place and this short Miga.
Go back in Xyangboche and Lukla will not be a shortest road, but will arrange another helicopter tour of the immediate vicinity of the eight-thousandths of Cho Oy, over the longest Nepalese Glacier NGOZUMBA and Lake Gokio Valley. This time without landing. On the way back we will spend in Lucla about an hour, so there will be time to visit the Irish Pub and consolidate success!
Our tour passes on serious heights in conditions of lack of oxygen. Since the height is gaining sharply and without preliminary acclimatization, the average safe time of staying in Xyangboche is not more than 90 minutes, in Congre no more than 40 minutes and in the Base Camp of Everest (5300) or on the helicopter area on the slope of Calapattar not more than 10 minutes. Given the fact that in the helicopter, the pressure is the same as overboard, and the flight itself from Svabboche to the base Everest takes place at an altitude up to 5700 and occupies back and back more than 15 minutes, we practically do not have time for finding on Earth.
Please be alert! If you feel the ailments of above average, immediately report the pilot and fly down! The helicopter has an oxygen system, issued on the first requirement.
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